Empakaai Crater: Hiking Ngorongoro’s Hidden Crater Lake

Empakaai Crater is a smaller, wilder sister of the Ngorongoro Crater, hidden in the northern highlands of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. About 6 km across, with steep forested walls and a deep soda lake covering much of its floor, it is one of the most beautiful places in northern Tanzania and one of the least visited. The way to experience it is on foot: a ranger-led hike from the rim down to the lake shore, where flamingos often gather.

This guide covers what Empakaai is like, the hike, wildlife, how to get there, fees and how to combine it with the Ngorongoro Crater.

Empakaai Crater at a glance

Fact Detail
Where Northern Ngorongoro Conservation Area, north-east of the Ngorongoro Crater
Size About 6 km across
The lake An alkaline soda lake covering much of the crater floor, reported to be about 85 m deep
Walls Steep and forested, roughly 300 m from rim to lake
The hike Down to the lake and back; allow about 1 hour down and 1 to 1.5 hours up
Ranger An armed ranger escort is required for walking
Fees Ngorongoro conservation fee plus a walking or ranger fee
Getting there A long day trip from Karatu on rough roads, or stay nearby

What makes Empakaai special

While the Ngorongoro Crater is about big game from a vehicle, Empakaai is about landscape and walking. The rim is wrapped in montane forest and grassland, and on a clear day the views are extraordinary: down to the turquoise and pink lake, across the highlands and, to the north, towards Ol Doinyo Lengai, the active volcano the Maasai call the Mountain of God. On exceptionally clear days some visitors also see Kilimanjaro far to the east.

The lake is the highlight. When conditions suit, flamingos gather along the shallows in pink bands, and the quiet is striking after the busy crater floor.

The Empakaai hike

The trail drops steeply from the rim through forest to the lake shore. It is well used but can be slippery after rain. Most people take about an hour to walk down and a little longer to climb back up, with time at the bottom to walk along the shore.

  • Difficulty: moderate to challenging because of the steep climb back, and the altitude, with the rim well above 2,000 m.
  • Ranger: walking in the conservation area requires an armed ranger, arranged through your operator or at the ranger post.
  • What to wear: shoes with good grip, layers, a hat and sunscreen.
  • What to bring: water, snacks, a walking pole if you like one, and binoculars for the flamingos.

Wildlife and birds

  • Flamingos on the lake, in numbers that vary with the season and water levels.
  • Buffalo, bushbuck and blue monkeys in the forest; buffalo are one reason a ranger walks with you.
  • Elephants pass through the highlands.
  • Forest birds such as sunbirds, turacos and raptors over the rim.

Empakaai is not a big-game destination; go for the scenery, the walk and the peace.

Main building and pool at The Retreat at Ngorongoro
Karatu is the usual base for highland day trips, with a pool and fireplace to come back to.

How to get to Empakaai

Empakaai is reached by gravel and dirt roads through the highlands, past Olmoti Crater and Maasai villages. From the Ngorongoro Crater rim the drive takes a couple of hours, and from Karatu it is a long full-day trip with an early start. Roads can be slow and rough, especially after rain.

  • As a day trip from Karatu: leave at first light, hike in the late morning, return in the late afternoon.
  • Overnight nearby: there are simple campsites and a few camps in the highlands, which make the visit more relaxed.
  • With Lake Natron: some travellers continue north from Empakaai down to Lake Natron and Ol Doinyo Lengai, a rough but spectacular route.

Best time to visit

  • June to October: the driest months and the clearest views, with easier roads. Mornings on the rim are cold.
  • November to March: greener, with showers; often good flamingo numbers when the lake is full.
  • April and May: the long rains make the roads and trail muddy; check conditions first.

Fees

Empakaai lies inside the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, so the conservation fee applies, about US$70.80 per non-resident adult for each 24 hours at 2026 rates. Walking with a ranger carries an additional fee. Ask your operator to include all fees in your quote. See Ngorongoro fees explained.

Empakaai, Olmoti or the Ngorongoro Crater?

Ngorongoro Crater Empakaai Crater Olmoti Crater
Experience Big game from a vehicle Hike to a crater lake Short walk to a rim and waterfall
Wildlife Lion, rhino, elephant, buffalo, hyena Flamingos, forest animals Highland grazers, birds
Effort Easy Moderate to challenging Easy to moderate
Crowds Busy in the dry season Very quiet Quiet
Time Half to full day Full day from Karatu Half day

Read more about all three in our guide to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and our complete Ngorongoro Crater guide.

How to fit Empakaai into a safari

Empakaai works best on a longer stay in the Ngorongoro area. A good pattern is three nights in Karatu: one day in the Ngorongoro Crater, one day for Empakaai, and one easier day for Lake Manyara, Endoro Falls or rest. Our lodge, The Retreat at Ngorongoro, is in the Tloma area of Karatu, 20 to 30 minutes from Lodoare Gate; we can arrange an early breakfast and packed lunch for the long highland day. See our villas.

Questions about Empakaai Crater

Where is Empakaai Crater?

In the northern highlands of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, north-east of the Ngorongoro Crater.

How long is the Empakaai hike?

Allow about an hour to walk down to the lake and a little longer to climb back up, plus time at the shore.

Do you need a ranger for Empakaai?

Yes. Walking in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area requires an armed ranger escort.

Are there flamingos at Empakaai?

Often, yes, though numbers vary with the season and the level of the lake.

Can you visit Empakaai as a day trip from Karatu?

Yes, but it is a long day on rough roads. Start early, or stay a night in the highlands.

Planning a few days in the highlands? Check availability at The Retreat at Ngorongoro.

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